Car technical fluids

All cars need five essential fluids that need periodic replacement

• motor oil;
• transmission oil (aka gearbox oil);
• antifreeze;
• power steering fluid;
• brake fluid.

For each unit and unit there is a recommended interval for changing fluids. It is not always necessary to change everything at once during scheduled maintenance: power steering fluid, antifreeze, and transmission oil. We always follow the recommendations of the automaker. But we also pay attention to changes in the color of the fluid or its lack, such factors can signal a future malfunction.

And the last but not least important fluid for a car is windshield wiper fluid. It is probably the easiest to use: look at the temperature outside, select the appropriate fluid and fill the tank full. Top up as needed.

Replacing Engine Oil in the Engine

It is important to understand that during the operation of an internal combustion engine (ICE), fuel residues and fuel combustion products, wear products of rubbing parts, in cases of severe wear - metal shavings and other contaminants enter the lubricant. All this leads to a deterioration in the properties of the engine oil and over time the additive package loses its properties. The lubricant cannot perform its functions to the fullest extent. That is why it is important to replace it in a timely manner.

If the engine oil is not changed for a long time, it is possible to "kill" the engine. We will tell you how to replace engine oil, what is the replacement interval and why is a new oil filter installed.

Changing the oil in the engine of different cars is not very different and occurs according to the same scheme. First, we select the appropriate oil from the catalog or according to the recommendations of the car manufacturer. Then we warm up the engine to operating temperature. If it is warm, then we immediately begin the replacement. We put the car on a lift and roll up a special container where we will drain the used fluid. The second option is in the case of occupied lifts, on the inspection pit, there is a special “trough” oil collector. Then we unscrew the drain plug on the engine crankcase. As a rule, this is the lowest point on the pan or for greater certainty, check the operating instructions. We unscrew the plug with a wrench, and at the end with our hands, because the oil pours out immediately and quickly (pre-install a drain container), otherwise you will lose the drain plug. The oil drains quickly, usually no more than five minutes. But on 100% the oil does not drain, it is not scary, because usually a little more than 2-3% of old fluid remains in the engine.

Should the manufacturer's recommendations be followed? For modern engines, when the quality of the oils is improved, the car manufacturer recommends replacing them after 10-15 thousand kilometers. This value is determined by the manufacturer under ideal operating conditions. The worse the conditions, the faster the oil wears out and the earlier it needs to be changed. What are considered severe conditions? These include: frequent temperature changes, frost, frequent engine loads (for example, in mountainous areas or when transporting heavy loads), motor sports also do not contribute to maintaining performance. Usually, if driving conditions are defined as severe, it is recommended to reduce the mileage before replacement by 25-30 percent. Operation of a car in the city is equated to severe - sluggish traffic jams kill oil as actively as off-road, driving in the mountains or motor sports. You also need to understand that it is better to consider the oil change interval in engine hours. In the city, the mileage is small, but the engine works for a long time. Average replacement intervals for heavy urban use: 5,000 – 7,000 km.

Do you need to change the oil filter? Yes, definitely. Working with a worn and clogged engine oil filter is equivalent to working without it, because the “bypass” valve will open and the oil will pass past the filter element, washing away dirt from the clogged filter element along the way. This is provided for by its design so that when the oil is thick and cold, the paper filter element does not burst. By the end of the engine oil's service life, it will be clogged, which will lead to the opening of the bypass valve and the oil will leave uncleaned. Hence - intensive engine wear.

Our station has all the necessary conditions for a high-quality oil change in modern cars. We also have a large range of lubricants from “top” manufacturers. We have a set of all the necessary specialized wrenches for unscrewing oil filters.

Changing the transmission oil

Changing transmission oil is one of the most discussed and controversial topics among motorists. There are several opposing opinions on when to change the transmission oil and how to do it correctly. To make the right decision, you need to understand what function these lubricants perform and how their replacement affects the performance and service life of the transmission.

Our experts identify four main functions of oil in the transmission.

1. Lubricant. Since the gears of the gearbox are constantly meshing with each other, a means is needed to reduce their friction. Oil makes the meshing smooth and the parts wear out more slowly. Oil removes metal shavings from the friction elements, which can act as an abrasive on the metal.
2. Protective. Transmission oil forms a kind of protective layer that protects parts from corrosion and oxidation. The unit serves for a long time and without failures.
3. Cooling. When the car is moving, the temperature at the gear engagement point reaches 250 degrees Celsius. The oil does not heat up above 150 ℃, which means that the parts give off excess heat to it.
4. Hydraulics work. This is more typical for automatic transmissions, robotic transmissions. Also found in active locks, such as Haldex. Transmission oil performs direct work on compressing clutch packs to transmit torque. 

Changing the oil in the transmission of modern cars is often not regulated by the manufacturer, however, constant operation of the car leads to wear and tear of even the strongest parts of the machine, regardless of the brand.

At 100,000-150,000 kilometers of run, small metal particles from natural wear of gears, bearings, fill the liquid. Thus, the physical properties of the oil change, its thermal conductivity increases and lubricating properties deteriorate. The design of the "mechanics" does not provide for the presence of a special filter, and therefore the "garbage" will be in constant motion inside the box and increase wear.

The result of constant heating of the oil can be the formation of foam inside the unit. A foamy oil mixture with an admixture of wear products loses its lubricating and protective properties, which is especially dangerous for an automatic transmission. At the moment of critical contamination of the oil in the "automatic" the torque from the engine simply ceases to be transmitted, which deprives the car of the ability to move. The answer to the question of whether it is necessary to change the oil in the gearbox is quite obvious in this case.

Oil change interval

The oil change schedule for a manual transmission can be found in the technical documentation for the car. Unfortunately, manufacturers often do not consider it necessary to write about this in the instructions. In this case, you should listen to the advice of professionals. Experts recommend changing the transmission oil every 100The oil change schedule for a manual transmission can be found in the technical documentation for the car. Unfortunately, manufacturers often do not consider it necessary to write about this in the instructions. In this case, you should listen to the advice of professionals. Experts recommend changing the transmission oil every 100,000 km or after 7 years of standard car use, whichever comes first. If your car is subjected to frequent loads and operating conditions leave much to be desired, you need to change the oil every 60,000 -70,000 km. The time interval also depends on the type of oil and the class of the vehicle.

Types of oils and features of their use

All transmission oils differ in type and application. For each type of transmission, there is a specialized oil.
For example, 75W90 transmission oil is poured into a manual transmission, this oil can be found in most transfer cases and axles. But, for example, many modern manufacturers of manual transmissions have switched from “colored” synchronizers to friction ones and 75W90 is no longer suitable, DCTF must be poured into such manual transmissions. The same applies to axles, if the axle has an LSD lock, then the appropriate oil is required. Automatic transmissions usually use the ATF oil line, the abbreviation stands for (Automatic Transmission Fluid) - this is a fluid for automatic transmissions. For CVT variators, for robotic dual clutch DCTF.

When paying attention to the types of lubricants, the car owner should know that the characteristics of the composition intended for manual transmissions are significantly different from automatic transmission oil. One cannot be replaced with the other.

How do we change the oil in the transmission?

It is recommended to change the oil in the gearbox in autumn or winter. It is during this period that the unit is under the greatest load and is most likely to fail. An urgent oil change is also required for newly purchased used cars with mileage of more than 60,000 km.

We assume that the car is at a service station and the engine oil has been changed. If not, then we put it on a lift or equipped inspection pit.

There is no particular difficulty with manual transmissions and gearboxes, we drain the old oil through the drain hole. We inspect the magnet, if it is on the drain plug, for the presence of metal suspension. We fill in the required volume of new oil through the filler hole according to the service manual or catalog. The filler hole is not always visible for the level. If there is no filler hole, then we fill in the new oil through the drain hole, all the equipment for this is available.

It's a little more complicated with an automatic transmission. Each hydromechanical, CVT, robotic gearbox (they all belong to automatic transmissions) has its own algorithm. It is very important to know and follow it. Our specialists will select the necessary oil, the replacement kit (filter gasket) is needed for this. The drain-fill method changes only 30% oil, and to replace it completely, knowledge and specialized equipment are required. For a complete oil change, we have a special stand that we implement in the cooling system and it changes all the oil by the replacement method. But you need to understand which gearboxes can be changed this way and which cannot. In some automatic gearboxes, changing the oil involves removing the pan, cleaning and checking for metal deposits on the magnets, and replacing the filter, sometimes there are two.
In most cases, with a working automatic transmission, it is sufficient to partially replace the oil by opening the sump and replacing the filters. There is no need to drain the old oil.

It should be remembered that such units are very sensitive to its level. Moreover, overfilling the automatic transmission has the same negative effect on the transmission as underfilling.
It is very important to set the oil level in the automatic transmission correctly, so you need to start by checking the transmission fluid level in the automatic transmission.
To do this, the gearbox needs to be warmed up (drive the car for about 10-15 km), then park the car on a flat surface (do not turn off the engine), let the engine idle for about 5 minutes, turn on the main automatic transmission modes one after the other for 3-5 seconds, move the gearbox selector to P (on some cars to N, check the manual) and remove the automatic transmission oil dipstick. Then the dipstick is wiped with a clean, lint-free rag, tightly inserted back for a couple of seconds and removed again.
Normally, the dipstick readings should be in the middle between COLD and HOT. The main thing is that the readings should not be higher than the HOT mark. It is also not allowed to lower the ATF level below the COLD mark.
Please note that if you rely on the readings when the oil in the automatic transmission has not been previously warmed up, the data will be inaccurate. As a result, you may make a mistake and overfill the automatic transmission, as the transmission fluid expands and thins as it heats up. But there are boxes that are checked when cold.
Please note that the location of the dipstick may vary on different cars. Also, not all transmissions have a dipstick, and there may be a viewing jam.

Replacing coolant (antifreeze)

Coolant constantly circulates through the cooling system to remove and transfer heat generated by a running engine. If this system is not working properly, the powertrain will overheat, which can lead to severe wear and tear and serious damage. For example, an overheated engine can seize, which can lead to expensive and complicated repairs.

Antifreeze is the common name for automotive fluids that cool and do not freeze at low temperatures. But the useful properties of modern compounds are not limited to this. They include complex additional compositions that protect surfaces from corrosion, scale formation and foaming. Every motorist should know how often antifreeze needs to be changed and how the replacement should be performed. You will find the answers to these questions below.

1. Overheating, which prevents the normal operation of the internal combustion engine

The normal operating temperature of the engine ranges from 85 to 90 °C. The clearances and materials of the power unit are designed for this range. Overheating leads to a drop in power while increasing fuel consumption. Insufficient cooling deforms the rings and cylinders. An increase in clearances leads to exhaust gases entering the oil or lubricant in the exhaust manifold. If the internal combustion engine regularly operates above the standard temperature regime, its service life is reduced by approximately 2–3 times.

2. Corrosive effects

The coolant contains water. It is water that transfers heat, not antifreeze. Water in the coolant begins to provoke oxidative processes. To reduce the effect, modern antifreezes have additives, but they lose their properties over time. Corrosion not only destroys the surfaces of the main and radiator. It reduces the throughput of the channels and increases resistance. The corrosion layer has a lower thermal conductivity, which worsens the efficiency of the cooling system. All this creates an unnecessary load on the engine and heat dissipation equipment.

3. Precipitation

This problem is typical for silicate-based antifreezes. Over time, some of the substances in their composition precipitate in the form of tiny silicon particles. When the liquid circulates, the movement of the hard components creates a significant abrasive effect.

4. Cavitation erosion

Cavitation is understood as the natural process of formation of bubbles with gases of the heated liquid. When these cavities collapse, significant energy is released, which creates excess pressure in the cooling system of the car. In addition, the bursting bubbles destroy metal surfaces, which leads to leakage. The new antifreeze contains special additives that minimize cavitation processes. But over time, the properties of the additives are lost.

Now there should definitely be no doubt that the quality and condition of the coolant must be monitored regularly.

How often should you change the antifreeze in your car?

This question is asked by many motorists. But there is no universal correct answer for all cases. Experienced experts do not even advise to completely rely on the advice of the car manufacturer. The regulations indicate average recommendations that do not take into account operating conditions and the quality of service.
Whether the coolant needs to be replaced and how often the antifreeze needs to be changed depends not only on the make of the car, but also on its mileage and the type of composition used. Approximate ranges of how many kilometers it is necessary to fill in new coolant.

Antifreeze class G11. These are traditional antifreezes with an inorganic composition. They usually contain a large number of additives and are suitable for older car models or engines made of aluminum, cast iron and aluminum alloys. At what mileage should they be changed? Approximately every 50–60,000 km.

G12 class antifreezes. These are carboxylate compounds with organic additives. Their basis is ethylene glycol, but the additives contain carboxylic acid. Such substances should be replaced every 120,000 km.

Hybrid compositions. These may include antifreezes of the G12 category with a different number of pluses. They mix organic and inorganic substances, so such products are a hybrid. They are more effective compared to traditional or carboxylate compositions, because they combine their best qualities. The replacement period can be from 90 to 120,000 km.

Lobrid syllables. Most often they are labeled as G13 class antifreezes, since they have a fundamental difference from others in composition. The basis of such coolants is propylene glycol. They are safer for the car system, so they are also called low-hybrid. Some G12++ antifreezes also belong to the lobrid category. They can be changed not very often: every 250,000 km.

There are other factors that affect the timing of coolant replacement.

• The level of wear of the cooling system: the older it is, and the more corrosion or deposits on the pipes, the more often it is worth changing the antifreeze. If you see rust particles in the refrigerant itself after draining, you should fill in a new one more often. 30 %.
• Conditions of use of the car: under increased loads or high temperatures, the quality of the antifreeze in the system decreases. Therefore, after a hot season or operating the car under high stress conditions, it is worth checking the coolant.
• Unscheduled topping up: if you want to use a different class or type of compound, regardless of mileage, you should drain the old one.

Under normal conditions and provided that high-quality antifreeze is used, the need for replacement occurs every 90–150,000 km. However, some motorists drive this many kilometers in a few years. In such a situation, the antifreeze replacement interval will change. With low mileage, you need to focus on the terms specified by the manufacturer of the coolant, since it is he who determines how long the composition will retain its qualities. Depending on the production technology, the automotive refrigerant can be used for 2–5 years.

How we change antifreeze

First, we familiarize ourselves with the technical documentation of the car. It always indicates the best timing for replacing technological fluids, as well as important nuances of the process itself. Most often, the service procedure follows the following algorithm.

Selection of the appropriate coolant. If a concentrate was chosen, it must be diluted in the required proportion with distilled water.

The car is installed in the working position. All subsequent manipulations can be started after the engine has cooled down. This requires at least 30 minutes after the engine has stopped.

A pan or other container is installed under the radiator to collect the used coolant. Then the drain cap is unscrewed. Now you need to pour out the remaining coolant from the expansion tank. This may require a flexible hose or dismantling the tank. Unscrew the drain plug from the engine block, if any.

If the fluid has not been changed for a long time, it is better to flush the cooling system using special compounds or distilled water.

After that, new antifreeze is poured in. How much to pour? It is better to focus on the mark in the expansion tank. After replacing the antifreeze, it is necessary to pay attention to the temperature sensor indicator for some time. Carry out several cycles of heating and cooling the engine, top up as needed. Check the heater's performance (it takes heat from the engine cooling system). Check the level in the expansion tank and the replacement can be considered complete. We recommend checking the coolant level every time you open the hood of the car.
* It is better to combine the operation of replacing antifreeze with replacing the timing belt. In this case, the engine is partially understood and the cooling pump is often changed. The pump is the lowest point of the engine, having removed it, we drain almost all the old fluid.

Brake fluid replacement

Brake fluid is an important service fluid, the quality of which directly affects your safety. Thanks to brake fluid, the force applied to the brake pedal is transmitted through the lines to the brake mechanisms, which ensures the car stops. Untimely replacement of brake fluid, accompanied by a deterioration in its properties, can lead to failure of the brake mechanisms and, as a result, an accident. For example, worn-out fluid can “boil” during intensive driving and the brakes will fail.

To ensure the effective operation of the brake system, be sure to monitor the condition of the brake fluid. During the operation of the car, the brake fluid tends to change its properties, in particular, absorb moisture, stratify and oxidize. According to the recommendations of many automakers, brake fluid should be changed at least once every two to three years, depending on the mileage or service life. We recommend that you focus primarily on the moisture level of the brake fluid, not on the mileage. It should exceed 3.5%. It is checked with a special device that is available at the service.
The higher the moisture content, the lower the boiling point of the brake fluid, which in turn can lead to the formation of vapor locks (boiling) and failure of the brake system. If the device shows a moisture level above 3.5%, this serves as a signal to replace the brake fluid. In case you do not have a measuring device, the quality of the brake fluid can be assessed independently by appearance - a darkened heterogeneous liquid with sediment is an indicator of replacement. And if, for example, you have purchased a used car and do not know when the last MOT was carried out - it is better to replace the brake fluid immediately.

Before replacement, our specialists select the optimal fluid for your operation. If this is an everyday car, DOT4, DOT5 are used, for sports cars, a more durable fluid is used. For example:

We perform the replacement on a lift with the removal of all wheels. We inspect the brake hoses for cracks. We clean and develop the bleeder fittings. We perform the replacement by the displacement method (classic) or with a special vacuum device. For some brake systems, it is necessary to put the electronics (ABS, ESP) into service mode.

Power steering fluid replacement

Power steering (hereinafter referred to as power steering) is one of the most important elements of a car's control. Having appeared in the forties of the 20th century, this type of amplifier is successfully used in modern cars, facilitating the work of steering a car.

The power steering system requires periodic maintenance. To prevent failure of the pump and steering seals, it is recommended to replace the power steering fluid every 40-50 thousand kilometers. 

First, determine what type of fluid is needed for your car. As a rule, the type of fluid is written on the power steering reservoir cap.

Common PSF – POWER STEERING FLUID, Dextron – also known as ATF for automatic transmissions, HF – Hydraulik Fluid.

Normally, the fluid is light, moderately transparent, and does not have a burnt odor. Replacement will be required if the fluid is contaminated.
Dirty fluid accelerates the wear of parts in the power steering, primarily the steering rack. Dirt can cause extraneous noises, and the steering wheel becomes very stiff. If necessary, the expansion tank should be cleaned and even replaced. It should be noted that the service life of each of the mentioned fluids directly depends on the operating mode, as well as the age and mileage of the car. 
We use two replacement options, partial and full.
When partially replacing, remove the power steering fluid reservoir cap and remove the filter mesh, if any. Using a syringe, completely pump out the power steering fluid in the barrel. With the wheels off, turn the steering wheel left and right to expel the old fluid from the steering rack. Fill in new fluid to the upper level on the dipstick. Distribute the new fluid through the system and set the level.

When completely replacing, remove the power steering fluid reservoir cap and remove the filter mesh, if any. Using a syringe, completely pump out the power steering fluid in the reservoir. Change the reservoir to a new one, or if possible, my own. Connect the hoses going to the reservoir to a special stand and completely flush the entire system with new fluid. With the wheels off, turn the steering wheel left and right to expel any old fluid from the steering rack. This procedure is necessary when repairing the steering rack or replacing the power steering pump.